A Comprehensive Travel Guide to Eskişehir, Turkey

The Ancient Heart: From Phrygian Dorylaeum to Modern Eskişehir

The Eskişehir region is steeped in a rich and layered history, with evidence of human settlement dating back to at least 3000 B.C. . Over the centuries, it has been home to a succession of influential cultures, including the Hittites, Lydians, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and Ottomans . However, its most defining ancient identity comes from the Phrygians, an Indo-European people who established a powerful kingdom in Anatolia after the fall of the Hittite Empire .

Around 1000 BC, the Phrygians founded the city of Dorylaeum (or Dorylaion) near the site of modern Eskişehir . This city became a significant Phrygian center and an important trading post . The name "Eskişehir," which means "old city" in Turkish, was given by the later Seljuk Turks who observed the ruins of this ancient settlement . The city's location shifted over time; the original site near Karaca Hisar was moved about ten kilometers to Şarhöyük (identified as Dorylaeum) around the end of the fourth century BC . Dorylaeum later became a notable bishopric in the Byzantine era and was the site of a major battle during the First Crusade in 1097, where Crusaders defeated the Seljuk Turks .

Getting to Eskişehir

Eskişehir is a major transportation hub in Turkey, making it easily accessible from major cities .

• By Train: The high-speed train (Yüksek Hızlı Tren - YHT) is arguably the best way to reach Eskişehir . It's a major nexus on the YHT network, offering frequent and comfortable connections.

  • From Ankara: The journey is very quick, taking approximately 1.5 hours . Trains depart from the modern Ankara High-Speed Train Station (Ankara YHT Garı) .
  • From Istanbul: The trip takes about 2.5 to 3.5 hours . Main departure stations are on the Asian side, including Söğütlüçeşme (easily reached via the Marmaray urban rail line) and Pendik .
  • Arrival: All YHT trains arrive at the main railway station (Eskişehir Garı), which is conveniently located in the city center . The "İsmet İnönü" tram stop is nearby, providing a seamless connection to the city's tram system .

• By Bus: Turkey has an excellent intercity bus network, and Eskişehir's large bus terminal (Otogar) is served by numerous companies like Metro Turizm and Pamukkale Turizm .

  • From Istanbul: The bus journey takes around 5 to 8 hours, depending on traffic . Buses depart from major terminals like Esenler Otogar, Alibeyköy, and Harem .
  • From Ankara: The trip is shorter, at about 3 to 4 hours . Buses depart from Ankara's main terminal, AŞTİ .
  • Arrival: The bus terminal (Eskişehir Otogarı) is located to the east of the city center and is directly connected to the tram system via the "Otogar" stop .

• By Car: Driving to Eskişehir is straightforward. The city is approximately a 3.5 to 4-hour drive from Istanbul and about 2.5 hours from Ankara. However, a car is not necessary to explore the city itself, as public transport is highly efficient and parking can be a challenge.

• By Air: Eskişehir's Hasan Polatkan Airport (AOE) has very limited commercial flights. A more practical approach is to fly into Istanbul's Sabiha Gökçen Airport (SAW) or Ankara's Esenboğa Airport (ESB) and then continue your journey to Eskişehir by high-speed train or bus.

Getting Around the City

Navigating Eskişehir is a breeze thanks to its modern and well-organized public transportation system, primarily consisting of the Estram (tram) and city buses . To use public transport, you'll need an 'Eskart' or another payment method .

Navigating with Eskart and Other Payment Methods

• Purchasing a Card: For tourists, the most convenient places to get a card are the kiosks and vending machines at major transport hubs like the main bus terminal (Otogar) and the train station (Eskişehir Garı) . You can also find them at authorized dealers throughout the city .
• Payment Options:
  • Eskart: The standard 'Tam Eskart' is best for most visitors, allowing for discounted transfers within 60 minutes . You can load credit at vending machines or online .
  • Contactless Credit/Debit Cards: You can tap your bank card directly on the reader, though this is slightly more expensive and does not allow for transfers .
  • QR Tickets: Single-use QR tickets can be purchased from kiosks but do not permit transfers .

Top Attractions and Things to Do

Eskişehir is packed with attractions that cater to all interests, from history buffs and art lovers to families with children.

Odunpazarı: The Historic Heart

A designated UNESCO World Heritage tentative site, Odunpazarı is the city's old quarter, which was beautifully restored as part of the city's urban renewal projects . Lose yourself in its narrow, winding cobblestone streets lined with colorful Ottoman-era wooden houses .

• Kurşunlu Mosque and Complex: This 16th-century Ottoman complex is a central landmark in Odunpazarı .
  • History & Architecture: Commissioned by the vizier Çoban Mustafa Pasha, it was built between 1517 and 1525 . The architect is believed to be Acem Ali, a predecessor to the famed Mimar Sinan . The mosque, a single-domed structure, gets its name "Kurşunlu" from its lead-covered dome . The interior features intricate hand-carved decorations, while the exterior has a narthex with five smaller domes on marble columns . The original complex was a social center including a mosque, fountain, school, madrasa, soup kitchen (imaret), dervish lodge (zaviye), and caravanserai .
  • Atlıhan Handicrafts Bazaar: Housed in a restored inn originally built in the 1850s for travelers, this bazaar reopened in 2006 . Today, its 25 workshops are the perfect place to watch artisans work and buy authentic meerschaum pipes and other local crafts .
  • Meerschaum Museum (Lületaşı Müzesi): Located within the complex, this is the world's only museum dedicated to the art of meerschaum carving . Established in 2008, it showcases around 400 intricate items made from the soft white mineral for which Eskişehir is famous . Admission is free .

Porsuk River (Adalar District)

The beautifully landscaped banks of the Porsuk River are the social heart of the city, earning Eskişehir its "Venice of Turkey" nickname . This area, known as Adalar ("Islands"), is lined with vibrant cafes, restaurants, and walkways .

• Gondola and Boat Tours: Enjoy a relaxing ride on the river for unique views of the city . Be aware of queues, especially on weekends .
  • Gondola Tours: These private tours for up to four people offer an intimate, 10-15 minute experience .
  • Esbot (Boat) Tours: These larger, shared boats are a more budget-friendly option for a scenic tour .

Sazova Science, Art, and Culture Park

This massive thematic park is a must-visit, especially for families . Entry to the park is free, but individual attractions have fees and are generally closed on Mondays .

• Getting There: You can reach the park using bus lines K11, M4, S11, S17, S55, K17, M17, and S77 .
• Fairy Tale Castle (Masal Şatosu): An enchanting castle with 26 whimsical towers inspired by Turkish landmarks .
• Pirate Ship (Korsan Gemisi): A full-scale replica of a pirate galleon that you can climb aboard and explore .
• Eti Underwater World (Eti Sualtı Dünyası) & Zoo: One of Turkey's premier aquariums, featuring over 100 species and a 19-meter underwater tunnel, combined with the city zoo .
• Science and Experiment Center (Bilim Deney Merkezi): Makes science fun with hands-on exhibits and the Sabancı Space House planetarium .

Museums Galore

• Odunpazarı Modern Museum (OMM): Opened in 2019, this private museum is an architectural landmark designed by Kengo Kuma, showcasing modern and contemporary Turkish art . It is closed on Mondays .
• Yılmaz Büyükerşen Wax Museum: Turkey's first wax museum, featuring over 200 lifelike figures of Turkish and international personalities sculpted by the former mayor and his students .
• Contemporary Glass Arts Museum: Housed in restored Odunpazarı houses, this was Turkey's first museum for modern glass art, showcasing works from Turkish and international artists .
• Eti Archaeology Museum: A modern museum financed by the private sector, exhibiting artifacts from the Neolithic to Ottoman periods found in the region .

Parks and Green Spaces

• Kentpark: This large urban park, covering 300,000 square meters, is famous for creating Turkey's first artificial beach . The 350-meter-long beach uses real sea sand, offering a unique seaside experience in a landlocked city . The park also features an indoor Olympic-sized swimming pool, outdoor pools for adults and children, horse riding areas, and playgrounds . Lifeguards are on duty for safety .
  • Getting There: The park is near the bus terminal. You can take tram line 1 (Otogar-SSK) to the "Otogar" stop or use bus lines like K51, S9, S14, and S18 .
• Şelale Park: Located on a hill in the Çankaya neighborhood, this 38,000-square-meter park offers breathtaking panoramic views of the city, especially at sunset . Its centerpiece is a 1,400-square-meter artificial waterfall . The park also contains a windmill, statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, a mini amphitheater, and a cafe .
  • Getting There: You can take bus lines K16, K44, S11, S54, and S6, or light rail line 12 . It's also a 20-minute uphill walk from Odunpazarı .

Day Trip to the Phrygian Valley: The Midas Monument (Yazılıkaya)

For a journey into ancient history, take a day trip to the Phrygian Highlands, approximately 80 km south of Eskişehir . The centerpiece is the Midas Monument, also known as Yazılıkaya ("Inscribed Rock"), a monumental 7th or 6th-century BC rock-cut shrine dedicated to the mother goddess Cybele . The most convenient way to visit is by car .

What to Eat and Drink

Eskişehir's cuisine is heavily influenced by its Crimean Tatar heritage and Anatolian roots .

• Çibörek: The city's most famous dish, a half-moon-shaped fried pastry filled with minced meat, a legacy from the Crimean Tatars .
• Balaban Kebab: A unique local kebab featuring grilled meatballs over diced pita bread, topped with tomato sauce, butter, and yogurt .
• Met Helva: A traditional dense, fibrous sweet made from flour, sugar, and oil.
• Boza: A fermented millet drink popular in the winter.

Nightlife and Evening Entertainment

Reflecting its large student population, Eskişehir has a dynamic and accessible nightlife scene .

• Popular Districts: The main hubs for evening entertainment are the Tepebaşı district and the Adalar region along the Porsuk River . A street in the Hoşnudiye neighborhood, officially Vural Sokak, is so packed with venues that it's universally known as "Barlar Sokağı" (Bars Street) .
• Atmosphere and Venues: The scene offers something for everyone, from relaxed riverside cafes to lively pubs with live music, often featuring student bands . Popular spots include Charlie's Irish Pub, Replik Pub, and Social Pub . The areas around modern shopping centers like Espark AVM also contribute to the vibrant social life . This energetic atmosphere and student-friendly prices solidify Eskişehir's reputation as a premier "Student City" .

Best Time to Visit

The most pleasant times to visit Eskişehir are during the spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October). During these seasons, the weather is mild and ideal for walking around and enjoying the city's outdoor attractions.

Executive Summary

Eskişehir is a captivating destination that successfully marries its rich history with a forward-thinking, youthful spirit, largely due to transformative urban projects led by former mayor Yılmaz Büyükerşen .

• Getting There & Around: Easily accessible by high-speed train from Istanbul (Söğütlüçeşme, Pendik stations) and Ankara (Ankara YHT Garı) . The city itself has an excellent and user-friendly public transport system (Estram) with specific bus and tram lines connecting to all major attractions .
• Top Attractions: The city's main draws are the historic Odunpazarı district with its restored Ottoman houses and detailed Kurşunlu Complex; the vibrant Porsuk River perfect for gondola rides; and the family-friendly Sazova Park .
• Parks & Recreation: Unique green spaces include Kentpark, home to Turkey's first artificial beach and an Olympic pool, and Şelale Park, offering panoramic city views from its hilltop location .
• Culture & Art: A cultural hub with world-class museums like the architecturally stunning Odunpazarı Modern Museum (OMM), Turkey's first Wax Museum, the Contemporary Glass Arts Museum, and the modern Eti Archaeology Museum .
• Nightlife: As a "Student City," it boasts a vibrant nightlife centered in the Tepebaşı district and along the Porsuk River, with a dedicated "Bars Street" (Vural Sokak) offering a wide range of pubs and live music venues .
• Food & Shopping: Be sure to try local specialties rooted in Tatar heritage like Çibörek and Balaban Kebab . The must-buy souvenir is an item carved from meerschaum, the city's famous white stone.
• Best Time to Go: Spring and autumn offer the most pleasant weather for exploring.

A trip to Eskişehir offers a refreshing and diverse experience, showcasing a different, more modern side of Turkey while still being deeply rooted in its Anatolian culture.